I Hate Right Hands - Part V - Don't Drink the Paints  

Posted by Hal'jin in , , ,

Time for the final installement in the I Hate Right Hands series! This time I'll simply show you how to paint the 42nd Badlands color scheme along with stage-by-stage pictures and some tricks regarding painting in general.

Let's start with the general pointers on painting. Just a few basic things I'm sure most of you know already, but it never hurts to repeat those.

  • When undercoating remember to stir the can well beforehand. Also remember the weather influences how the paint will behave. Never do it when there's too high (or too low) humidity! Also keep an eye out on atmospheric pressure, as it might also influence it. The last factor is obviously temperature, below zero doesn't really work too well, melting sun doesn't help either. Additionaly make sure models are free from stains. If they're metal it might be a good idea to throw them into solvent liquid to clear off the grease that might've gathered on them.
  • Remember to water down your paints. Fancy sites like cmon will tell you that they have to be the consistency of milk. I don't really know when are they so I just take a brushful of water or two and mix it with the paint either on the palette or on the paint lid and it works for me. Keep in mind you probably shouldn't use the water from whatever container you use to clear the brush, especially if you painted with a metallic paint before!
  • As for metallic paints I tend to replace water in the jar right away after I finish using them. Professionals speak of having to separate jars, which works as well. I hate getting those tiny metal flakes into other paints by accident!
  • Take care of your brushes and they'll serve you for long. Never let the paint get into the area where the fiber are joint. Remember to always wash the brush throughoutly. It's a good idea to use an old brush to move paints from pot onto the mixing palette instead of the good one. Same goes for drybrushing. Apparently washing them in some hair shampoo from time to time is a good thing, but I've only tried it once so far and can't really say what are the results just yet.
I guess those do it. And now I present to you the 42nd Cadian Badland fatigues color scheme! When I paint my minis I always break the process down into a couple of stages, which are basically the basecoat of a given color and then its highlits. You will find the stages explained at the bottom of the post, which is also a summary of the painting, which is much easier to read and look at, once you know the deal. And now, the tutorial itself!

Start off by priming the model black

First start with applying a basecoat of Graveyard Earth. I use several very thin layers of it, to get a good coverage, while at the same time not obscuring the details. Then highlight nearly everything, but the most receeded areas with Desert Yellow. Continue highlighting, leaving some of Desert Yellow, with a 50:50 mix of Desert Yellow and Bleached Bone. I'll remind you of paints being thinned down - if you do that it will look way better. Finally pick up the most outstanding areas with pure Bleached Bone.

Apply a basecoat of Scorched Brown. The make a mix of 70:30 Scorched Brown and Graveyard Earth and apply highlits to the edges of the armour. You can make that "edge" wider, since the color should be very similar to the basecoat and the next highlight - 30:70 Scorched Brown and Graveyard Earth mix should be thinner than the previous. I also apply these highlights on top of the helm. Afterwards apply the final highlight of Graveyard Earth, myself however I only apply it from one direction, to imitate sunlight.

Brown Leather
Previously this was done after the metallics, but I've learned it's much better in that order, since it's hard not to paint on the tiny metal buttons on the leather items. First paint a basecoat of Bestial Brown. Then wash it with Ogryn Flesh and, once it has dried out, Devlan Mud. Once upon a time I did it with Flesh Wash, sadly it is no longer produced. Both generate slightly different effects, but both look good. Finally, apply highlights of Bestial Brown onto outstanding elements.

"Green" covers all green things on the model. On th eregular guardsmen it was just his canteen, but vets also have cloth rugs and grenades. It's easy to paint, start with a basecoat of Catachan Green. Then make a mix of Catachan Green and add very little Rotting Flesh. It will lighten the color up a lot, careful! Highlight with that mix and then add another small ammount of Rotting Flesh to the mix and use that to apply second highlight. The values given at the end might be off, I always do that roughly.

White cloth
And you got me, there's no white cloth on this model and not on any of the 4 vets that are unpainted. But since this mark on the backpack is supposed to be white and it's painted exactly the same... Here it is: Basecoat of Adeptus Battlegrey and highlight of Skull White. Yep, that's it. Be warned though, you will most likely need several layers of Skull White to get a good coverage!

Another thing made trivial with Citadel Washes. Basecoat with Boltgn Metal, wash with Badab Black and highlight with Chainmail. That's it!

Now the most detailed part. First apply a few thin coats of Dwarf Flesh to get a good coverage, afterwards wash with Ogryn Flesh. Paint the eye sockets Chaos Black. Then paint on them with Skull White, while at the same time picking up teeth. The paint the pupils with Chaos Black. Once you're done with the eyes, higlight the face with Dwarf Flesh, which you can also use to paint eyelids and cover up any mistakes there. Lastly apply a final highlight of a 70:30 Dwarf Flesh and Elf Flesh mix.

The model is nearly done, now's the time for the fine details. Each one is painted differently as the details are myriad of things including the aquilas everywhere, the squad/Cadian markings, knife handles and also purity seals and glasses (which are absent on that particular model). There isn't really much to it and all the steps are described in the later breakdown part of the article.
The only thing not there is the meltagun muzzle. I painted it drybrushing Bestial Brown onto it, washing with Ogryn Flesh and then drybrushing Chaos Black. Ron over at FtW had a short article on that too, check it out!

Sadly I have no shots on that. The lightning apparead so bad in the shots it just ruined the color completely and the pcitures were rendered unusable. But it's not a hard thing. First read this tutorial on cmon about making the bases. It does include a painting guide as well, though I paint it slightly differently. First a basecoat of Graveyard Earth. Then a wash of Vallejo Smoke INk was supposed to come, but I was unable to find Vallejo paints anywhere... After consulting a bit I made my own wash - it's a mix of Scorched Brown and a little Chaos Black made into ink using this method. After it dries out, drybrush it with Bubonic Brown (Desert Yellow works fine too!) then Bleached Bone and afterwards drybrush the edges of stones with Skull White. Finally, add some foilage and voila! You're done.

Black leather
Basically this is the step where you repaint the areas which you wished to remain black that you accidentaly overpainted in one of the previous steps. This includes primarly boots, as they tend to get messy after drybrushing the base. Additionaly I highlight the boots a little with Adeptus Battlegrey, but nothing too extensive.

And that's it! Here we have a finished mini.

The only thing left is to varnish it. (Well, technically the mini in the pictures is still missing foaliage, I know!)
  • Fatigues
    Basecoat: Graveyard Earth
    Highlights: Desert Yellow, 50:50 Desert Yellow/Bleached Bone, Bleached Bone
  • Armour
    Basecoat: Scorched Brown
    Highlights: 70:30 Scorched Brown/Graveyard Earth, 30:70 Scorched Brown/Graveyard Earth, Graveyard Earth
  • White cloth
    Basecoat: Adeptus Battlegrey
    Highlights: Skull White
  • Brown leather
    Basecoat: Bestial Brown
    Highlights: Ogryn Flesh wash, Devlan Mud wash, Bestial Brown
  • "Green"
    Basecoat: Catachan Green
    Highlights: 80:20 Catachan Green/Rotting Flesh, 70:30 Catachan Green/Rotting Flesh
  • Metal
    Basecoat: Boltgun Metal
    Highlights: Badab Black wash, Chainmail
  • Flesh
    Basecoat: Dwarf Flesh
    Highlights: Ogryn Flesh wash, Dwarf Flesh, 70:30 Dwarf Flesh/Elf Flesh
    Eyes: Chaos Black, Skull White, Chaos Black
  • Details
    Colors used: Graveyard Earth, Desert Yellow, Bleached Bone
    Knife Handle
    Colors used: Catachan Green, Rotting Flesh
    Purity Seals - Seal
    Colors used: Red Gore, Baal Red wash, Blood Red
    Purity Seals - Parchment
    Colors used: multiple higlights of Snakebite Leather going into Bleached Bone
    Colors used: Regal Blue, multiple highlights up til 50:50 Regal Blue\Skull White
  • Base
    Basecoat: Graveyard Earth
    Highlights: "Smoke Ink" wash, Bubonic Brown, Desert Yellow, Skull White
    Smoke Ink = 80:20 Scorched Brown/Chaos Black
  • Black leather
    Basecoat: Chaos Black
    Highlights: Adeptus Battlegrey

And this concludes the IHRH series, thanks for staying with me for its duration and reading! No doubt there will be other tutorials on painting and modelling in the future, written as I get the ideas. I am already considering an additional IHRH article though, part 5.5. I suppose you can guess what it will be about. Also, if you have any requests regarding the series, go ahead and say them, I'll be more than glad to write about the thing you're interested in!

And a quick shot of the next thing to do. And no, it's not the book, I've read it already. I'll probably scribble something about it too, but let me just tell you it is awesome. I loved every bit of it! Also the table building log will continue tomorrow. It was way too hot to work today and only in the later afternoon I bought more glue along with som means to link the parts... but more on that soon!

This entry was posted on Thursday, July 30, 2009 at Thursday, July 30, 2009 and is filed under , , , . You can follow any responses to this entry through the comments feed .


Great article in a whole series of great articles. Awesome work!

31 July 2009 at 01:00

Thanks for the tutorial - very simple and easy to understand and replicate.

Good work.


31 July 2009 at 10:15

I agree wholeheartedly with the above, mate; nice one!

31 July 2009 at 10:25

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